TourBC 2005 “Ranchlands and Rockies”
Claire and I spent seven days riding over 500 miles (800 km.) in the Canadian Rockies this July. We had a fantastic time and were blessed with beautiful weather.
TourBC organizes supported group tours of British Columbia. They carry your luggage and provide all meals. Camping is included in the cost, but we chose the motel option since this was our first ride of more than two days. TourBC provides fantastic mechanical support and great logistics including signs every 5 km. along the road letting you know how many kilometers remain in the day’s ride and warning cars of “Bicycles on Road”. The entire staff is wonderfully friendly and supportive.
Claire and I have previously done STP (Seattle to Portland) and RSVP, both two day rides of 200 and 183 miles (320 and 292 km.). Claire did a one day STP three years ago and a two day the previous week on a tandem with our twelve year old daughter.
During drive from Seattle to the 2005 TourBC starting point in Cranbrook, B.C. we talked about the upcoming bike trip. We were excited we but knew it was going to be a long 514 miles. On the way we met two other TourBC couples. First, Dave and Nancy passed by our car with two bikes on top and they waved while Nancy held up a “TourBC” sign. I followed them to get gas in Moses Lake, WA and we introduced each other. It was looking like TourBC’s reputation for nice people was true. Then, at the little used border crossing at Kingsgate, we noticed the car behind us had two bikes on top and met Jim and Linda.
After an eight hour drive we arrived at the College of the Rockies in Cranbrook, met more people in line to get the mandatory equipment check, and checked into our dorm rooms. After a late but good dinner at the Apollo restaurant we did a final organization for the next day and went to bed.
Day 1 – Cranbrook to Fernie 70 miles (112 km.)
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8:23 AM Claire and David at the start
We put on our bike clothes, drove to Smitty’s for a hearty breakfast, drove back to the college for the final briefing, and rode out of Cranbrook along with most of the group around 8 AM to cool and partly cloudy weather. Our sturdy and well thought out TourBC 2005 guide showed an elevation profile of mostly gently rolling hills for the day.
The day was uneventful. The first water stop at Wardner Provincial Park had wonderful cherries. We met some other participants, especially on a little used side road off of the busier Highway 3. TourBC routed us several times via side roads, which was much appreciated. In this case, the pavement was rougher (chip seal) but the countryside was pretty and the road took us past Kikomun Creek Provincial Park for our lunch stop. The scenery became increasing beautiful as the day progressed.
11:17 AM Claire taking a break 1:40 PM Mountain side
We arrived in Fernie and checked into the Riverside Mountain Lodge. TourBC arranged for all participants to use the pool and spa so it was a good chance to meet other riders. Then Claire and I had a beer on the terrace. Dinner was hearty but the restaurant had some trouble keeping up with the appetites of 120 riders. We took this in stride: the logistics of arranging 25 huge and quality meals in out of the ways places are obvious. All of the other meals went off without a hitch and with little visible waste of food.
Day 2 – Fernie to Blairmore 51 miles (82 km.)
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6:22 AM From the Riverside 8:14 AM Just starting out
Mountain Lodge
My camera’s clock shows that I was taking pictures of the awakening mountains at 6:22 AM but I don’t remember it. Day 2 was a bit more climbing than yesterday, most of it up to lunch at Crowsnest Lake. Halfway up was the very nice visitor’s center at Sparwood, home of the world’s largest truck. It really is a big truck.
10:00 AM The World’s Largest Truck 11:01 AM Claire by a creek
Sparwood
We continued through some beautiful countryside up to the lake for some lunch (tasty wraps and fruit). The route took us slightly past Blairmore and up a fairly steep 100 meter climb to the Frank Slide Interpretive Center. This looks over the aftermath of a huge avalanche that collapsed the side of a mountain and tore through the early coal mining town of Frank.
12:37 PM David and Claire in 12:38 PM Crowsnest Peak
Crowsnest Pass
We descended and then back tracked a mile through our first headwind and rode the length of Blairmore’s main street to the Best Canadian Motor Inn, across from the group’s campsite. We sat and talked to our friend Steve at the campsite and then walked back down the entire main street and had a beer at a small hotel’s tavern. The Motor Inn served the tour a nice turkey dinner with all the trimmings and sumptuous deserts.
The Frank Slide (photo from the web) 4:37 PM Claire and Steve in Blairmore
Day 3 – Blairmore to Longview 85 miles (136 km.)
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9:16 AM Claire at Lundbreck Falls 9:17 AM Lundbreck Falls
Our first long day rolled across the ranchland of Alberta. We got off to a late start because we thought breakfast had been moved to 8 AM and so started out at least a half hour after almost everyone else. The first water stop at Lundbreck Falls was especially nice with a beautiful cascade of water on view. We met Peter Stary, one of the tour leaders as we ate lunch. Claire and I both ignored the TourBC arrow on exit and went about two miles the wrong way until Claire realized we should have intersected Highway 22 by then. She got out her map of southern Alberta and we saw how the Lundbreck Falls turnoff straddles the 22 and we should have headed back the way we came to get to the 22.
12:44 PM Peter on an empty 12:45 PM Ranchlands
highway 22
Peter, riding sweep, was surprised to see us roll by him after our wrong turn as he stopped to assist a participant. At lunch I became mired in some gravel and didn’t clip out in time, taking a graceful rolling spill that garnered good reviews from witnesses. Lunch was barely a third of the way into the day and we were already behind (although the staff repeatedly said “this is not a race.”). Peter swept us much of the rest of the way. He was a very pleasant companion on the empty highway as we talked about bicycling, Canada, and politics. We continued through beautifully bright green but desolate rolling ranchlands framed by big blue skies to Longview, arriving at the campsite around 4:30 PM.
3:17 PM Claire with Lyle and Peter 5:21 PM Pete, Diana, Claire and Steve
at the campsite
After a shower, Claire and I participated in bicycle repair demonstrations and had an extensive and tasty meal at Memories Restaurant, which provided live music as it easily handled our numbers and appetites. Our server acknowledged that they’re used to ranch crews. Chris, the owner of the Highwood River Inn B&B picked us up and drove us 16 miles (26 km.), along the next day’s route, to our lodging, describing the sights along the way. He said that normally everything would be brown this time of year but all the recent rain had caused an explosion of green and of wildflowers. Visible damage to some trees was caused by a localized hailstorm.
Day 4 – Longview to Kananaskis 75 miles (121 km.) ascent of 4560 ft. (1390 m.)
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After the B&B’s breakfast we rejoined the route about 8:10 AM, just about even with the leading edge of the tour leaving Longview. Many fast riders passed by us as we started the “big ascent” – almost 3000 nearly continuous but not very steep feet (900 m.) up Highwood Pass. The scenery was very spectacular, with new vistas suddenly revealed behind each bend and lots of time to take it in from many angles. The air was sharp and clear. About this time, Claire set my camera to its “mountain” setting to get the focus at infinity, improving the photos.
9:30 AM David looking up into 10:42 AM Highwood Pass
Highwood Pass
The shoulder was plenty wide enough for logging trucks to pass by comfortably. I also briefly talked to two people who were measuring the electrical properties of the rocks by running a current through the ground. After a water stop and several breaks, and about the time I started feeling the altitude, we crested the pass and arrived at our mountaintop lunch stop (sandwiches and fruit). It took us about five hours to climb the forty miles (64 km.).
11:55 AM Claire in awe of the 1:30 PM Claire at the summit
scenary
The descent was exciting. We came down into a very strong headwind. After the first few miles the grade lessened somewhat and the wind almost balanced our descent force so we didn’t go much over 20 mph, down a good shoulder with occasional cracks. At one point I was pulled over at an interpretive marker on the opposite shoulder and overcautiously waiting for a truck to go by when I saw it was covered with cameras and someone yelled “cut” as it passed me. Turns out it was filming for the upcoming movie “RV” with Robin Williams. Had I made my left in front of the truck along with Claire they probably would have continued their pass. I’m sure that I’m on the cutting room floor (or in the bit bucket).
2:10 PM Mountains on the descent 3:25 PM David and Claire on the descent
We arrived at the campsite and got lost for a bit on some dedicated bicycle paths looking for our lodging at the Executive Resort at Kananaskis (the only nearby lodging). This turned out to be several miles and perhaps 300 vertical feet (90 m.) up from the campsite. In general, we should have used www.mapquest.com or a similar service to see where our lodging was relative to each night’s campground and restaurant. We chose to remain up at Kananaskis Village and had a fine dinner at the nearby Delta Lodge.
Day 5 Kananaskis to Banff 53 miles (86 km.) ascent of 1820 ft. (555 m.)
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We descended for breakfast with the group at the Boundary Ranch and had a pancake breakfast. This “rest day” was an easy 53 miles (86 km.). Much of it was along the little used alternate Highway 1A that snaked through forested hills, with broad views of the mountains and industrial sized mineral operations occasionally breaking up the landscape. The sky was grey but not threatening, gradually clearing up during the day.
9:08 AM Barrier Dam Picnic Area 10:36 AM View from the 1A
It was clear and hot in Banff and we walked around shopping and had beer and hot wings on a shady street front terrace at the Ptarmigan Hotel, had a generous cut of sirloin with the group at The Keg, did some laundry and turned in.
Day 6 Banff to Radium 86 miles (134 km.) ascent of 3460 ft. (1055 m.)
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Fueled by a smorgasbord breakfast at the Keg we crossed the Rockies twice today in two long (but generally not steep) climbs. After another brief stint on the Trans Canada Highway we got off on the secluded Bow Valley Parkway. (Highway 1A) The road rolls briskly through undeveloped and heavily forested land with occasional views of the mountains. One of the nicest parts was where the lanes spit off into two one-way strips making the ride seem even more isolated.
9:05 AM Bow Valley Parkway 10:56 AM David at Vermillion Pass
At Castle Junction we turned onto Highway 93 and climbed about 1000 feet (300 m.) up Vermillion Pass and over the continental divide through beautiful mountain scenery and graying skies. We expected the 38 miles (60 km.) with about 1800 feet (540 m.) of descent and very little climbing to be a breeze. It was – a strong headwind that made for a real battle at times. In the middle we had a pleasant lunch at Kooteney Lodge in Vermillion Crossing. Claire started drafting me for the first time on the trip to beat the wind. We were pretty tired by the time we made it into our last water stop just before the 1300 foot (390 m.) climb over Sinclair Pass. Two fresh, large mountain berry crisp bars and a Gu were very welcome here. It started to drizzle as we ascended and rain steadily by the time we wearily reached the summit. I put on my jacket (for the first and only time on the tour) and we descended an exciting and fairly steep 1800 feet (540 m.). After awhile the shoulder deteriorated and we took the lane down to the Radium Hot Springs spa.
A TourBC truck had day bags for us with a change of clothes, suit and towels. We made a beeline for the hot pool and soaked for awhile. Claire reminisced about her last trip there over thirty years earlier. Claire’s shoulder was continuing to bother her so she had a massage. It was pouring rain and we decided to splurge on a cab into the town of Radium where we checked into the cute and neat Sunset Motel. Dinner was an outpouring of beef lasagna, bread, and Caesar salad at La Cabina in the Prestige Inn. There were some final announcements and overall good feelings as this was the last time we would all be together in one place during the tour.
Day 7 Radium to Cranbrook 94 miles (151 km.) ascent of 3150 ft. (960 m.)
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We had muffins and juice in town and then rode ten miles (16 km.) to a friendly pancake and sausage breakfast at the Invermere Lion’s Club. One of the characters tending the BBQ avowed that each sausage was “good for forty kilometers.” It was a good thing I had two because we had a long last day ahead of us with big rollers all the way back to Cranbrook. The ride out of Invermere was strung together from side roads that led us along several lakes, fighting a strong side wind, to our water stop after 28 miles (45 km.). This was followed by a long stretch on highway 93/95 with a stiff head wind and some 100-300 foot (30-90 m.) climbs. Claire’s shoulder was hurting pretty bad and she chose to be sagged to the lunch stop and avoid this 32 mile (51 km.) leg. I poured it on against the wind and arrived about 2.5 hours (9000 sec.) later at our lunch stop at Skookumchuck Restaurant.
11:38 AM Along Highway 93 6 PM Claire arriving back in Cranbrook
Claire rejoined me for the final 34 mile (54 km.) leg back to Cranbrook. This was a bit less windy, but I was tired from attacking the hills and drafted Claire for much of this last bit over some flat boggy areas and hills. Our Fort Steele water stop was a delight, from the ice water in pitchers and date pastries served in period costume to the ice cream cone we bought inside. Claire was interested to compare the Fort today to her memories from visits thirty years ago.
One last 500 foot (150 m.) climb brought us back to our starting point at the College of the Rockies in Cranbrook. We were elated at having completed the tour, at the wonderful weather, warm people, and overall at the great experience.